First roadtrip in Burkina!
Ouaga – Bobo – Bagassi – Boromo – Ouaga
After a month in Ouaga we decided we needed a little more adventure in our lives, roadtrip here we come! We booked ourselves and our scooter bus tickets to Bobo-Dioulasso and off we went. 6 air-conditioned hours (yes!) and 3 top quality West African films later we arrived in Burkina Faso’s second biggest city and centre of music and culture!
Our scooter in the belly of the bus.
Where to visit, eat and sleep in Bobo
Streets of Bobo – photo story of everyday life
Back to Ouaga via Boromo
We spent 3 nights in the city before jumping on the scooter to head back to Ouaga via Boromo, doing the first leg by scooter. It was definitely the right decision; we saw some beautiful countryside and went through some cute and almost unreal villages. Just remember to cover up and suntan lotion any body parts on show. The sun is fierce and unforgiving and you don’t want any red bits!
Also drink lots and lots of water. There are villages on route to grab something to eat and drink, but we still recommend you set off with loads of water as it is hot hot hot!
Another tip, and I know I am beginning to sound like a nag here, is just to ask around about your planned route before you head out. For 2 reasons really. Some roads in Burkina are not that great and may only be suitable for 4x4s, rather than scooters. But also there are security risks for foreigners, such as bandits that might rob you or extremists that might kidnap you. I promise I am not saying this to scare you, and just because some areas of Burkina are no go, it doesn’t mean they all are. It’s just about looking after yourself and not taking unnecessary risks.
Asphalt – Yay! Dust road– boo!
It was so brilliant to be out on the road and travelling at the pace we wanted to. We could stop for a little nap under a big baobab tree, or at a village for a chat and some food. The first bit of our trip heading north towards Dedougou was on a well-maintained and empty asphalt road. It meant we could drive comfortably, taking in all the surrounding landscape and village life.
It was a different story however when we turned off the asphalt and onto the dust road. Niek spent most of the time avoiding pot holes whilst I clung on. It was fun and the scenery is gorgeous, but we did go a lot slower than expected. It is something to bear in mind (but not put you off I hope) if you’re going to take this route.
Another thing you must do is always check how much petrol you have left. We found ourselves in the middle of nowhere, low on patrol and had to head back to the last village we’d seen, praying the scooter would make it. Don’t make the same mistake we did!
Taking a break under a tree
Cheap but not so cheerful
The sun was starting to go down and after asking around in a few villages we heard we could find an auberge in Bagassi. So that’s where we headed!
I must admit it wasn’t my favourite place to stay. It was only 3000cfa (4.5 euros) a night, but it’s the kind of room you want to spend as little time in as possible. Cockroach as a bed buddy anyone? What we plan to do next time is pack some sheets and a mosquito net tent and ask in a village if we can borrow someone’s roof for the night. There’s nothing quite like sleeping under the stars anyway!
There’s another reason Bagassi didn’t seem all that cheerful, although we only found it out the next morning. We headed out as soon as the sun went up (bye little cockroach) and found a temporary mining settlement built around a gold mine. I have to say that scooting through, it did not feel like a very happy place. It also explained the people covered in white dust that were cycling past us the night before looking gloomy.
We didn’t feel right stopping and asking anyone about this mine, so I can’t say what the conditions are like. But mining for gold in Burkina can be very hard work and extremely dangerous. We both left Bagassi with a slight chill, wandering what life was like in the shack city that has grown around the mine.
Bagassi. I wont’ miss it!
Caffeine overload
After a quick break to do some droning (we accidently caught a bull trying to get jiggy with another) and a much needed Nescafe in Ouahabou we hit the asphalt again. It was only for a short while thankfully, as this road runs between Bobo and Ouaga is much busier.
In Boromo it was time for some more caffeine, this time in the form of a cold coke, before getting the STAF bus back to Ouaga. Niek lived in Burkina 5 years ago and STAF used to have a really bad reputation then, known for reckless driving and lots of accidents. We were a little nervous about this so asked around, and were told they had sorted themselves out since then. Good news as it was the only big bus that would take us and our scooter back.
Bagassi from the sky
From Boromo to Ouaga
Just a note of warning that it is not as comfy as the Rahimo bus. 3 seats where there should be 2, no air-conditioning, and it does stop a lot to stock up on snacks and to let people jump on and off. Oh I forgot that it takes 5 hours to get back rather than 3! But having a numb bum and sweaty pits is part of taking local transport in Burkina. You’ve just got to embrace it! And anyway you can have a nice shower and cold Brakina (the nations favourite beer) once you’re home, just as we did.
The STAF bus cost 3000cfa (4.5 euros) each and 2000cfa (3 euros) for the scooter and leaves from the bus station in Boromo.
Once you’re back in Ouagadougou here are some fun things to do!
Here’s that naughty drone video I mentioned earlier!
