The living masks of Burkina Faso

Village dance of the masks – Nekerosso

Lots and lots of staring, 40 degree heat, triplets in matching clothes, shots of pastis and village rum, family courtyards, eerie whistled tune, extremely energetic and violent dance moves, heavy masks, intricate facial scarification, dust, sweating drummers, small children drinking dolo and a setting sun.

This only goes a small way to describing the atmosphere at Nekorosso village on the day of the mask dance.  We were lucky enough to be invited by Gnile Konate , a friend of Nieks and a Bwa mask maker and blacksmith from Oury.

Below are some photos and a video that hopefully explain why we came to Burkina Faso, a country that seems to have ancient traditions still intertwined with everyday life.  Some say this is because the Burkinabe have not adopted Christianity and Islam as strongly as their neighbouring countries.  Some definitely have, there are mosques and churches scattered across the country, we have seen a lot on our various scooter trips.  However many solely practise Animism or practise it alongside Christianity or Islam.  They offer prayer and sacrifices to the spirits of nature and their ancestors.  In the royal court of Tiebele pots covered in guinea fowl and chicken feathers show that animal sacrifice is still part of everyday life.

The mosque in the Muslim quarter of Oury

Bwa mask makers and Nunuma dancers

The dancers we saw belong to the Nunuma ethnicity and were wearing masks made by members of the Bwa ethnicity.  Something I only found out this time in Burkina is that the word mask refers to the whole costume, not just the carved mask the dancer wears on his head.  The Bwa masks we saw represent different animals, such as the monkey and the butterfly, and are always adorned with red, white and black geometric patterns.  These patterns are not purely decorative, they are a system of writing that can be read be anyone that has been initiated.  They explain the laws you have to follow to receive blessings.

Doufoungou, Gnile’s brother, explained that traditionally only natural colours are used to decorate the mask; made from earth, rock and trees.  Now sometimes paint is used, but for real traditional ceremonies only masks made with natural materials will be used.

Masks appear for many reasons; funerals, initiations, market days and also to attract people to that village.  It is a big deal when mask dancers visit, and you could tell in Nekorosso that everyone was very excited.  In the build-up everyone was drinking village rum and pastis, whilst during the performance dolo (fermented millet beer) was passed round everyone in cut open calabas.

Dolo, a beer made locally from millet, is passed around everyone.

Intricate steps and energetic head banging

The dancing went on for about 2 hours, with the dancers taking it in turns to step into the centre of the ring of people and perform a variety of intricate fast steps and very violent head banging.  It almost seemed as though the piper and the drummers controlled the dancers.  They egged them on by loudly hitting their drum right in their faces, with the piper bending low and staring right at them, whilst playing a very eerie tune.

Towards the end of the dancing the masks became even more energetic, holding their sticks up for the villagers to grab in appreciation, and jumping up and dropping to their knees from even greater heights.  Men and women started to join in and take it in turns to perform frantic and almost intimidating dances, which made everyone even more hyped up.  Women encouraged the dancing with a cry made by forming their mouths into an O shape, singing ‘oooooooooooo’ and pinching the side of their mouth over and over.

And just like that it was over.  The whole village followed the dancers out and we jumped on our scooter to follow another Konate brother, Hiwame, back to Oury.  Driving back through the bush in the dark we were exhilarated and excited.

For more photos from Burkina Faso check out The Streets of Bobo